Go to Pictures:
How to Remove & Replace the Engine
Last Updated - August 14th, 2004
Go to Instructions:
Go to Tools Required:
Go to Supplies to Remember:
Go to Additional Thoughts:
Click on a picture to enlarge it.
Please also note that these pictures are from different cars.
Some were taken of Mike's ES during a complete engine swap.
pictures are componets of the IROC. Others came from
that the heads and exhaust manifolds are off in some of the pictures.
do not need to remove these components to simply swap the engine.
|Here is a shot of the stock engine
|The engine is supported by the
T-brace while the transmission is removed.
|| The bolts holding the downpipe to
the rear exhaust manifold must be removed (or cut).
|Once the transmission is out, the
side motor mount has to come off.
|The fuel lines on the pulley side
of the engine must be disconnected.
|There are 2 bolts on each side that
hold the hood on. These must come off.
|The engine is removed. Note
that they heads and intake/exhaust manifolds do NOT have to come off.
|If you don't take out your
radiator, this may happen. (Collision with oil filter)
||Here' s the empty engine bay.
Since you'll be removing a
lot of components, it helps to keep the nuts/bolts that go with each
together. Laying everything out in groups on the floor is very
helpful. Please re-read the last 2 sentences so that you aren't
swearing when you go to reassemble everything.
1. Position the car.
Park the car in an way such that an engine hoist
can be moved in front of the car and later removed. You will also
want to make sure you have plenty room around each of the front
tires. You'll also want to make sure you can maneuver your hoist
with an engine dangling from it AND that you can pick up the
replacement engine with the hoist. The point here is that good
positioning of the car and repacement engine will save you big
2. Remove the transmission. (See Transaxle Removal page
and the Halfshaft Removal page
3. If the car has A/C, and the A/C is charged, unbolt and support
the compressor so that the hoses aren't stressed.
4. Disconnect the exhaust bolts
that connect the downpipe to the
5. Transition the engine from the T-brace
to the engine hoist.
Chains can be connected to a number of places on
the engine. You can run them through the plenum a few times,
connect them to the exhaust studs, or through the exhaust manifold, or
connect them to the corner grounding bolts. Just make sure the
chains are on good and tight and that there is as little slack as
possible between the end of the hoist and the top of the plenum.
6. Either remove the radiator
or protect it with a thick piece of
7. Disconnect the fuel lines
at the side of the engine.
These are quick connect hoses. Simply place
a rag over the hose, push up on the plastic insert on the bottom of the
connector and pull. Each hose should disconnect easily. (If
you don't use a rag over the hose, you may spray gasoline all over the
8. Disconnect the power steering pump.
You can either unhook the power steering pump
lines connected to the pump or remove the pump itself from the
engine. To disconnect the lines, you'll want a flare end
wrench. As an alternative, you can unbolt the pump from the
engine. To do that, remove the serpentine belt. Remove the
two mounting bolts by running a socket/extension through the holes in
the pulley. Remove the two rear mounting bolts.
9. Unbolt the side motor mount
from the frame.
10. Unbolt the hood.
There are 4 bolts that hold the hood onto the 2
lift brackets. Remove them
from each side and then carefully
place the hood on the roof of the car. The hood will still be
connected to a wire so rotate it so that the front of the hood faces
the passenger's side as you place it on top of the car. Putting
some cardboard between the roof of the car and the hood is a good idea.
11. Hoist the engine out.
Be careful not to let the oil filter smack into
the radiator. It only takes one time.
12. Transfer any parts you need to transfer between engines.
13. Put everything else back together in the reverse order.
14. Fill the transmission with oil.
Pull the plug in the side of the
transmission. Using a funnel and
a piece of tubing, fill it with 2 quarts of motor oil. When
you're finished, stick your finger in the hole and make sure you can
feel oil. Then replace the plug.
- 2 Jack Stands
- Floor Jack
- Wooden T-Brace (1 8' 2x4 cut to 3' & 5' sections)
- Bottle Jack
- 12' of 3/16" or larger aircraft cable (plastic coated steel
cable) and cable clamps
- 6' of chain & removable links
- Set of various sized pry bars
- 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" Ratchets
- 3/8" Metric Standard and Deepwell Sockets
- 1/4" & 1/2" Metric Standard Sockets
- Various Extensions
- 1/2"-3/8" and 3/8"-1/2" adapters
- 1/2" Breaker bar
- Flare End Wrench (recommended to remove ps line from pump)
- Torque Wrench
- Air Compressor (strongly recommended)
- Air Impact Wrench (strongly recommended)
- Air Ratchet (strongly recommended)
- 32mm Socket
- 24mm Socket
- Medium sized Adjustable Wrench
- Combination or box end wrenches
- Pliars and/or vice grips
- Channel Locks
- Screw drivers
Supplies to Remember:
- 3-5 Gallon Bucket
- 2 Quarts of 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 Motor Oil
- Power Steering Fluid
- Funnel with 3' of hose (Oil bong)
- Pan to drain oil into
- Paper Towels
- Rubber Gloves
- Oil Absorbent Mat or Rags (recommended)
- Kitty Litter or Other material to soak up oil
- Thread Locker
- Replacement bobble strut if your's isn't solid
- If your power steering lines are getting old, they are much
easier to replace with the engine out. The pressure line is very
difficult to get out of the rack.
- Likewise if you want to inspect or replace the rack, now would be
a good time.
- This is a good time to clean your filthy engine bay.
- Inspect all of your motor/trans mount inserts while they aren't
being used. This is a good time to replace them, upgrade to solid
- You can change the water pump, timing belt, and serpentine belt
while the engine is out of the car. Don't wait until you put it
in the car to do it.
- If you want to replace your old O2 sensor, now is a good
time. The rear manifold will never be easier to get at.
- Consider replacing/upgrading your clutch and flywheel while
you're doing the swap. If you have any intention of doing this in
the next year, you would need your head examined if you didn't do it