Go to Pictures:
How to Replace the Clutch Disc and Flywheel
Last Updated - September 7th, 2004
Go to Instructions:
Go to Tools Required:
Go to Supplies to Remember:
Click on a picture to enlarge it.
Please also note that these pictures are from different cars.
were taken of Mike's ES during a complete engine swap. Others
pictures are componets of the IROC. Others came from
that the heads and exhaust manifolds are off in some of the pictures.
do not need to remove these components to replace your clutch.
|Remove the transmission from the
|Here's a shot of the pressure
||Here's a shot of a resurfaced
flywheel on an engine outside a car.
|Here's a used clutch disc sitting
in the pressure plate.
|Here's a look at the center of the
disc through the pressure plate.
|This is the throw out
bearing. ...in this case a VERY old throw out bearing.
|Here's a closeup of the center of
the clutch disc from mounted to the flywheel. Not the circle
scribed in the end of the crankshaft.
1. Remove the transaxle. (See
the Transaxle Removal Page.)
This step has been broken out because it isn't
specific to a clutch job. It does however represent the vast bulk
of the project.
2. Remove the pressure plate.
3. Remove the flywheel.
4. Have the flywheel resurfaced (or replace it).
5. Install the flywheel.
Use thread locker on the bolts and torque them to
the factory specs (70 ft-lbs according to the 92 FSM). This is a
case where you should torque one bolt down part way, and gradually work
your way around slowing bringing them all up to the correct torque.
6. Clean the flywheel with alcohol or
At this point, also change your gloves so you
don't get grease on the surface of the flywheel.
7. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate.
Make sure to insert the clutch disc the right
It has a front and back. Insert all of the mounting bolts
keep them all loose enough so that you can slide the clutch disc inside
with a small amount of effort. Once they are tight enough to do
center the clutch disc. A couple of points here. If your
is more than 10" away, the angle will fool your eyes. Look at it
close and dead on with one eye closed. There are
marks you can line up and there is no hole in the end of crank to
an alignment tool into. You have to eyeball this and it will
probably take you some time to get happy with where the way you
centered it. Once you've got it, tighten each of the
bolts moving sequentially around the circle tightening each no more
than a turn at a time until they are all tight.
torque them to factory specs (250 in-lbs according to the 92 FSM).
works out to about 21 ft-lbs. Don't half ass the alignment
If your clutch disc isn't aligned within maybe 1/16" of where it should
be, you'll fight to get the transmission installed, fail, have to
remove it, and repeat this step. That process will waste hours,
Alignment Method 1:
With your face close to the disc, one eye shut, and without moving your
head, use your fingers
to push the disc in
extreme positions right, left, top, and bottom. Position your
head such that the minimum distances between the center ring of the
clutch disc and the tips of the fingers of the pressure plate look
identical when the disc is pushed to each extreme. Once you have
that perspective, center the disc such that the ring in the center of
the disc is equidistant from the tips of all of the fingers on the
pressure plate. This will likely take several attempts and if you
move your head, you have to start over.
Alignment Method 2:
Get your face about 6 - 10" from the pressure plate, close one eye, and
position yourself so you are looking into the hole in the middle of the
clutch disc. On the other side, you will see a circle scribed into the end of the
crankshaft. In method one, you have to use your head as the fixed
point for perspective. In this method, you are going to look at
the circle as a fixed point of reference and compare it to the inner
splines of the clutch disc while moving your head. The splines
are squared so you can easily tell when you are looking at one edge
dead on along the surface of the spline or when you are looking at and
angle and seeing the actual surface of the splines. You want to
look along the surfaces in position so you just can't see the surface
itself. In order to center the disc, move your head around and
look along the splines on one side of the disc. Note how far the
splines appear from the circle. Moving your head to multiple
angles, you should reach a point where looking along the splines at any
edge makes them appear equidistant from the circle. When you hit
this point, the clutch is aligned.
8. Replace the throw out bearing.
Apply a small amount of wheel bearing grease to
the contact points on the fork as well as the splines. Hook the
bend ends of the clips on the bearing behind the fork prongs so it can
back and forth with the fork. You can test this by manually
actuating the clutch lever.
9. Reattach the transmission.
Note, if the clutch
disc is misaligned, the transmission won't go back on and you'll have
to realign the clutch disc. Reassembly is discussed further in the
Transaxle Removal Page.
- 2 Jack Stands
- Floor Jack
- Wooden T-Brace (1 8' 2x4 cut to 3' & 5' sections)
- Bottle Jack
- 12' of 3/16" or larger aircraft cable (plastic coated steel
cable) and cable clamps
- 6' of chain & removable links
- Set of various sized pry bars
- 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" Ratchets
- 3/8" Metric Standard and Deepwell Sockets
- 1/4" & 1/2" Metric Standard Sockets
- Various Extensions
- 1/2"-3/8" and 3/8"-1/2" adapters
- 1/2" Breaker bar
- Torque Wrench
- Air Compressor (strongly recommended)
- Air Impact Wrench (strongly recommended)
- Air Ratchet (strongly recommended)
- 32mm Socket
- 24mm Socket
- Medium sized Adjustable Wrench
- Combination or box end wrenches
- Pliars and/or vice grips
- Channel Locks
- Screw drivers
Supplies to Remember:
- Alcohol or Mineral Spirits to clean flywheel
- Wheel Bearing Grease
- 3-5 Gallon Bucket
- 2 Quarts of 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 Motor Oil
- Funnel with 3' of hose (Oil bong)
- Pan to drain oil into
- Paper Towels
- Rubber Gloves
- Oil Absorbent Mat or Rags (recommended)
- Kitty Litter or Other material to soak up oil
- Thread Locker
- Replacement bobble strut if your's isn't solid